Salt Flats 100 2015

2015 Salt Flats 100 Race Report

The Salt Flats 100 is truly a unique 100 mile race in western Utah and eastern Nevada near the town of Wendover.  About 20 miles of the course run across the vast Bonneville Salt Flats which is most noted for being the site of the world’s land speed record.  The remaining 80 miles meander through hills, mountain passes and valleys.  The scenery is remarkable for its remote desert scenery consisting of vast sheets of flat salt surrounded by stark, rugged mountains- some of which appear to float of above the Salt Flats. The entire scene is under the watchful eye of 10,700’ snow- capped Pilot Peak.  This was my 7th 100 mile race and first sub 30 hour finish making it extra special for me.

Race Director, Vince Romney 

 Runners await the 7:00 AM start

Race Director, Vince Romney, and I are good friends having graduated from Skyline High School together in the early ‘80’s and becoming reconnected in the past few years through the sport of ultrarunning.  Vince does an outstanding job with attention to detail putting on a “runner’s race”.  By that I mean the race caters not only to the elite ultrarunner seeking a sub 20 hour finish time, but also the average and even beginning ultra runner with a generous cut-off time of 36 hours.  Although the race is “easier” by 100 mile race standards, don’t be fooled – the race has its unique challenges with long flat sections on both salt and the infamous “mud flats”, along with some fairly technical mountain pass ascents and descents along rocky jeep trails often rutted out by desert rains.

Mike Cummings on the Salt

Besides the scenery and 100 mile experience, the great thing for me about 100 mile races is the chance I get to reconnect with old friends and meet new ones.
 On a race of this duration, you truly get a chance to know not only yourself, but the people you run with along the way.  In this case I met friends from Mexico, Germany, New Zealand, California, and even Wendover, Nevada!
Vince starts both the 50 and 100 mile race promptly at 7:00 AM on Friday amidst hoots and hollers from runners and spectators.  We’re fortunate this year to have Darth Vadar and Princess Leia cheering our start.  I ran this race with my good friend Mike Cummings with the intention of “pacing” each other the entire distance.  We immediately headed east towards “Floating Island” which is a mountain that appears to be floating above the Salt Flats 15 miles in the distance.  Among those I chatted with along the way was local runner Quintin Barney, one of the friendliest people I

Juan Caballero at Mile 10

Aid Station 1 - D. Crockett (right)

know, and a great ambassador to our sport.  I met for the first time Juan Caballero, also from Utah, but originally from Mexico.  It was fun to chat about all we have in common including some of the same races we’ve run.  We discovered we are the same age with children at similar stages in life (getting married, heading to medical school).  Juan went on to have a very strong race.  I also met for the first time and chatted with Mark Colby, from Payson, UT who was running the 50 miler.  Mark has 10 Wasatch 100 finishes.  Mark reminded me, as a 50 miler that day, he got to finish his race and drive home and sleep in his own bed tonight, where I would be spending the night on the trail.

Mike climbs to Cobb Pass

Aid Station 4

Being entirely flat, we ran 95% of the first 10 miles to Aid Station #1 (Speedway).  Making just a brief stop, we then proceeded across more salt to Aid Station 2 (Lone Post) near Floating Island, Mike and I quickly refilled our water, refueled and headed for foothills of the Silver Island Mountains.  As I was leaving the aid station, a friendly runner, helped me adjust my pack.  We instantly recognized each other.  It was Ule Stuwe from Germany by way of So Cal.  I paced Ole 3 years ago on the last 20 miles of this race which was his first 100 miler and my first exposure to the Salt Flats 100.  Ole was back, eager to best his previous time.  After a hearty handshake, Ole was on his way.
We next ran along the foothills of the Silver Island Mountains towards our first big climb of the race.  After a brief stop at Aid Station 3 (Cobb Creek Road) and a chat with Sue Brookes from New Zealand, running her first 100 mile race, we trudged up the trail toward Cobb Pass.  Here Mike and I were passed by Utah ultra-runner, Davy Crockett.

Grilled cheese at Cobb Pass

Storm clouds loom Mile 28

 Davy had been running with his older brother, Bob, but at this point elected to take off on his own.   Davy was running uphill, something I seldom do, all the way to the pass.  I guess that’s what you have to do to have a sub 24 hour finish.  Upon completing the 800 foot climb to
Cobb Pass we arrived at Aid Station 4, Cobb Peak Pass, manned by my good friend Jeff Stowell.

Darth Vadar greets runners at Hastings

Jeff and the volunteers were busily providing grilled cheese sandwiches and bacon to the runners.  That was just what I needed for an early lunch.  From hear we ran the descent down the north side of Cobb Pass to the vast open valley below.  Along the way we chatted with Emily Berriochoa from Boise, ID, who happens to be the race director for several races in Idaho including the Wilson Creek Frozen 50K which Mike and I ran a few years ago.  We would “leap frog” Emily throughout much of the race.  Although she was suffering from some soreness and later stomach issues at night, she toughed it out and finished the race.

Break out the ponchos

At this point, thick dark storm clouds had arrived to the northwest and we could see rain falling in the distance.   Whenever storms threatened it only blustered and lightly rained on us.  While runners and aid stations on other sections of the course got soaked pretty good, we managed to avoid most of the rain.  By the time we got out our rain ponchos and struggled to put them on in the gusty wind, the rain would stop.
Amidst some light rain and wind,
we made the short climb to the most remote area of the course, Sheep Camp (Aid Station 6).  We sought shelter from the wind and rain und
er their tarp and sipped some festive virgin pina coladas with pineapple-  truly a nice touch.  Also seeking shelter was local Wendover runner, Eric Nunemaker.  Just prior to this point Eric had suffered cramps resulting in a nasty fall.  Fortunately, some prospectors in the area looking for minerals (I’m being serious) offered Eric some water and Gatorade managing to revive him and send him on his way.  Although Eric bounced back nicely, he had to drop at mile 75 due to some lingering issues from his fall.

Mike Cummings crossing the Mud Flats

From here we made our steep descent down to the “Mud Flats”.  The mud flats are a vast lake size area in the Pilot Valley with a crust of mud that can take on several forms – muddy (as it was today with the rain showers),  firm and dry (if you’re lucky), or dusty (which it most often comprising a 1” layer of dust).   It appears that this was actually an ancient lake bed that is overlooked by Pilot Peak to the west.  The “trail” was marked about every 50 yards with green flags.  Mike and I decided to run 2 flags and walk 1 in order

Elko County Search and Rescue on the Mud Flats

to make steady progress along this interminable stretch.  About half way along, we saw 4 members, all ladies, of the Elko County Sheriff Search and Rescue team on horseback looking out for runners.  It looked like the cavalry had come to our rescue.  A big kudos to this organization for looking out for the safety of runners along the entire course.  Although we asked for a ride across the mud flats, they politely declined.  Since this is such a long remote stretch without any aid, Vince places a water barrel with a pump for the runners to refill if needed.
We were excited to get this section completed and head back to Hastings Junction Aid Station which serves as both Aid Stations 5 and 7.  This is the 50 mile mark where we placed our night drop bags.  The aid workers were kind enough to provide his with hot dogs and hot chocolate.  Again, just what we needed as we prepared for the night section of our run.  We asked the Search and Rescue stationed at Hastings what the weather forecast was for the night.  She said worst case was 50% chance of rain with wind gusts up to 20 mph.  So Mike and I layered up with pants and 2 waterproof layers on top, a beanie cap and pair of gloves.  As I started to run, I started to get quite hot and realized this was too much.  So I took off one layer and the pants and tied them around my waist.  Even though it was still cold and windy, this was about right and allowed more movement for running.

Eric Nunemaker of Wendover

As we headed down the trail we seemed to be surrounded on every side by storm clouds dropping rain on the distant mountains.  Although foreboding, it was beautiful to watch this scene unfold during sunset.  Unfortunately a strong headwind accompanied the show making forward progress difficult.  It was at this point that we were passed by Colorado runner, Matt Watts.   It’s always fun to see Matt as he seems to be a fixture at all of the Utah ultras.
As the sun set,  we ran parallel to cloud enshrouded Pilot Peak, the skies gradually cleared.  It looked like we would be then be able to see the brilliant star show throughout most of the night, unhindered by clouds.
The next section of the race runs along some dirt roads with aid stations conveniently placed every 5 to 7 miles.  They are all staffed with friendly volunteers ready to help you with your every need including providing us with hot cups of ramen noodle soup.  As we came out of one of these stations, I saw a runner getting out of a vehicle that had just pulled up from the opposite direction.  I thought that was quite strange.  It was Davy Crockett’s brother Bob. At this point there’s a left turn on the course which unfortunately Bob had missed.  He had added an extra 4 miles to his 100 mile run but still trudged on into the night.

Sun sets over Pilot Peak Valley

Speaking of night, it got noticeably colder-  probably high 30’s, low 40’s.  With the wind gusts there were definitely times that the wind chill made it feel below freezing.  I added a layer back on and was fine.  The tricky thing about night running is trying to gage distance.  You will see lights in the distance and say, “Oh look, that must be the aid station coming up.”  But it’s never as close as it looks.   This is only compounded in the vast distances of the west desert.
 I was once told by an experienced ultra runner, the best way to run 100 milers is to work hard in the day and survive the night.  We were definitely at the “survive the night” portion, as everything seems harder to do in the cold and wind – eat, drink, find things in your hydration pack.  The only consolation was we didn’t get rained on.  Aid stations are a welcome respite at these times.  And one of our favorites was at Mile 61 Silver Island Pass.  It was manned by a friendly family wearing Utah Utes gear.  The aid station captain knows what she’s doing as she also captains the busy Lambs Canyon Aid station at Wasatch 100 and the main aid station on the Pony Express 100.  They immediately provided us shelter under a tarp.  As we sat in our soccer chairs, they made us hotdogs, soup and s’mores.  Again, exactly what cold, tired runners need.

Ed naps and Mike refuels at around the fire -Mile 75,3:45 AM

Although difficult to leave, we headed back into the night along a quite technical, rutted trail.  We passed Emily again who was suffering stomach issues at this point.  We offered help, but she managed on her own.   The route eventually opens onto a more established dirt road where race crew vehicles are often seen aiding their runners.  When we arrived at Aid Station 11, Rock Pile  (Mile 75) it was about 4:00 AM.  Here we refueled and tried to warm up around the campfire.  Sitting around the fire was 100 mile running legend Ed Ettinghausen, wearing his Jester running outfit.  Ed, from southern California, had started the race strong but was experiencing some issues.  So he was taking a cat nap at the fire.  As Ed, Mike and I went on to leave the aid station, Mike and I noticed Ed was waivering and serpentining as he walked on the trail.  He was basically sleep walking which is not fun on an ultra.  We tapped Ed on the shoulder to ask if he was OK.   He politely asked if he could join up with Mike and I for the rest of the race for company to help keep him awake.  We gladly obliged.  Along this section there is a stretch of paved road for about 4 miles which is actually a nice change from the rugged and rutted dirt trails.  I managed to actually run a few miles on this section.

Mile 85 - Sun rise over Pilot Peak

After a brief stop at Aid Station 12 (Nevada, Mile 80) which was manned by a Scout Troop not interested in sleep, we headed for our final long climb of the race.  The sun was just barely starting to come up in the east.  We looked forward to the warmth it would provide.  As we progressed, Ed shared with us many stories from his vast running experience.  Ed holds (or held) the world’s record for most 100 mile races run in a year – 40 races.  Amazing! This race was Ed’s 3rd Salt Flats 100 and 99th 100 mile race overall.  He has developed the “jester” character as a friendly way to introduce others to the sport.  Although it’s clear from the costume Ed doesn’t take himself seriously, he’s serious about helping others, from all walks of life and body types, become successful, happy 100 mile racers.  It was fun to tap into Ed’s vast knowledge and experience.  On long ultras, the time definitely passes more quickly and pleasantly if you have someone to chat with along the way.  As we hiked up the trail, we came upon Bob Crockett again.  Unfortunately he was greatly slowed by back spasms.  We offered help but there was little we could do beyond providing some Ibuprofen.  We continued on as the trail meanders towards the high point of the course.  Just before reaching the pass, we stopped at Aid Station 13 (Utah, Mile 89.7).  Now these folks do a great job.  They actually send out people ahead to scout out the incoming runners and ask what we need.  When we arrived they ushered us into their warming tent/tarp and set us down alongside each other and provided us pizza and Coke.  Again, an ultra runner’s dream breakfast.  They actually had a pizza oven they were cooking there pizzas in.  This is not an easy location to haul suppliest to.  As much as we wanted to linger longer, we knew we had to get on with the conclusion of the race.  We crossed over the pass which looks over the Wendover Valley and managed to “run” down the trail a good ways.  On our way down, we passed Davy Crockett who had finished, hiking back up the trail to see to the needs of his brother Bob who was not far behind us.

RD Vince greet runners at the Finish Line

At this point, I mentioned to Ed and Mike that we could make a sub 30 our finish, just slightly longer than my original goal of 28.5 hours.  If successful, this would be my first sub 30 100 mile finish.  So after a brief stop at Aid Station 95, we made a point to pick up the pace.  Mike didn’t want to risk back spasms (which he suffered at the end of Bryce 100) so he held back a bit.  My philosophy at 100 milers is not to focus my race experience on my race time.  Rather I like to focus on the people and the surroundings along the way.  But I do make a point to challenge myself the last 3-5 miles and see if I can “run it in”.  Striving for a sub 30 hour time gave me that chance.  Even though Ed was suffering that day, he came a long and provided needed encouragement to run as much of the last 4 miles as possible.  The last 4 miles is back on the salt.  Ed’s daughter, Andrea, happened to drive by and drove ahead to double check the remaining mileage to ensure we had a shot at sub 30.

Vince delivers the buckle with Ed Ettinghausen looking on

With Ed’s long legs, he was able to do a little less running and more striding alongside me.  I on the other hand, with much shorter legs, had to run as much as I could.  Ed broke a blister at mile 97 and I did the same on my pinkie toe at mile 98.  Despite the short term discomfort, we soldiered on and ran the last few miles across the finish line with a time of 29 hours and 33 minutes.  I was quite pleased.

We were greeted by race director, Vince, who
presented us with our belt buckles and told us our finish time.  Ed’s daughter Andrea helped take pictures.  As we sat down to a bowl of finish line chili, we saw a lone figure on the salt in the distance gradually getting larger.  It was Mike.  We realized he had a real shot at sub 30 as well.  As Mike got closer, I trotted out to run in with him.  He ended up finishing in 29 hours and 56 minutes.
There’s nothing like the feeling of satisfaction and relief at the end of a 100 miler.  This one was especially sweet knowing we had accomplished our goals,  been blessed by dodging most of the rain, and enjoyed a great race experience.